Learn how to produce flawless prints with Direct-to-Film on your RICOH DTG printer.
Printing on film has become a popular alternative to direct-to-garment printing with its own set of advantages, most notably it allows you to store or sell graphics that can later be applied precisely on a variety of garment types. RICOH DTG printers give you the option to print both directly on garment and film, and we highly recommend giving both a shot to determine what best suits your business needs. You don't have to commit to one process, feel free to swap between DTF and DTG as needed!
Supplies
Assuming you already have your standard printing supplies (shirts, heat press, ink) all you'll need to get started is some DTF film and powder. Your results may vary based on the supplies you're using, so we recommend trying out a few different products to see what works best. If you're not sure where to start, we generally use DTF Powder from Garment Printer Ink and Cold Peel DTF Film from Ninja Transfers. Be sure to share your personal favorites so we can test them out!
Creating the Graphic
The RIP settings selected for the image in ColorGATE will determine whether the print comes out as DTF or DTG. We have pre-configured settings files publicly available on our downloads section, simply select your printer model and download the 'Direct-to-Film' settings file.
If you've never used one of these files before or just need a refresher, check out our guides for using settings files and creating hot folders.
If you haven't already, we recommend setting up hot folders for all of the settings files listed for the best results when printing on those types of garments. Feel free to contact technical support if you'd like assistance or have additional questions.
Once you've prepared the image, you can send the job to the printer via ethernet or USB.
Preparing the Film
If you have a roll of film, cut off a page that will fit the platen you're using. The film will have a matted side and a glossy side-- we want the matted side to be facing up since this is the side that will be printed on. If you're unsure of which side is which, you can try scratching the corner of the page. The matted side will scratch off while the glossy side will not.
To prevent the film from moving while printing, you can either spray some water on the platen before placing the film or tape the film down. Once the film is stuck in place, adjust the platen height as needed (closer to the printheads is better) and start the print.
Curing the Film
Once the print is finished, it's time to apply the DTF powder. You'll want to do this above a tray where you can dump any excess powder. Pour a generous amount on top of the entire image (the side you printed on), then tilt the page left and right so that the powder continually passes over it. You'll want a nice, even coat of powder sticking to the back of the image. We recommend using the videos above for reference.
Once the powder has completely covered the image, you can pour the rest into the tray.
When you're finished, make sure that the powder remains only on the image and not the film by itself. If the powder is on the film, it will stick to the garment when pressed, creating extra spots outside of the image. Flick and shake the film to thoroughly remove all extra powder.
Next, we're going to cure the image. If you're using a heat press, place the film underneath with the powder side up, and lower the top so that it hovers just above it. The temperature and time for curing is going to vary depending on the powder used, so refer to the manufacturer's instructions on the product page when doing so.
You can check that the image was cured correctly by feeling it once it cools down. It should feel smooth, and no residue should be coming off.
At this point, it is safe to store the film for future application, when you're ready to do so you may continue to the next step.
Applying the Image
The process for applying the image is going to vary depending on the garment, film, and powder used. To keep things simple for this guide, we'll use a shirt.
In this case, you can pre-press the shirt by itself if you'd like so that there are no wrinkles. Then, place the film with the powder side down in the desired position, with a heat press paper on top.
Press based on the temperature and time recommendations given for the film and powder.
Afterwards, you may remove the film if it is hot peel. If it is cold peel wait for the film to cool down before removing.
Common Issues
Ink is pooling or running on the film
In this case there is more ink being printed onto the film than it can handle. This could be a result of your RIP settings, start by installing the Direct-to-Film .csex file for your printer model in downloads.
Basically, the film for DTF will need a reduced amount of white and black ink compared to DTG printing. For some films, even the CMY ink needs to be reduced as well. The best and most vibrant prints can be achieved by films that can handle more ink like the Triple Coated Cold/Warm Peel from DTF PRO.
Ink is sticking to the film when peeling off the garment
This is usually caused by too high heat or too long of a press on the heat press particularly for hot peel films. In this case reduce the press temperature or time when applying the film to the garment (do not reduce the heat below 260°F though, as the powder will not completely melt and the bond of the film to the shirt will be weak).
Also, for hot peel films, the ink can stick to the film if they are allowed to cool before peeling. Hot peel films should be peeled almost immediately after the press opens.
Prints look blurry, edges of the graphic look fuzzy
This can be caused by the platen on the printer being too low. For the Ri 2000 and Ri 4000, always perform an auto height adjustment with the film on the platen to set the height correctly. For the Ri 1000 and Ri 1000X the platen should be adjusted near the top (0-1 on the scale) since the film is much thinner than a garment.